She stops by the water in the late afternoon, sets down her portable bbq – an old metal basin holding a bamboo bucket of smouldering coals, and wire grill – and cooks a batch of baby squid, fish and chicken pieces on bamboo skewers. Half an hour later, she shoulders her bbq and food, balanced on each end of her long bamboo pole, and slowly heads off into the twilight to sell to tourists, to local workers, to anyone who will buy…